The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

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The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 5:59 pm

this is the first result of a newer mold I'm making. These hexes will fit a 2 1/4" hex, and can be used with The Great Wart board game, and/or free standing game. The hexes are cast in hydrostone, and I still need to do a drop test, but I'm pretty happy with the results. I have another three more molds in the works! More to follow!

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 6:00 pm

This was my set-up to making the molds. I also have some dragon teeth in the works!

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 6:35 pm

here's a before, during and end result of one hex

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by Stalker6 » Sat Nov 19, 2016 7:24 pm

Impressive display of the molding process. I thought I was doing good recreating some of the AAM bunkers with a resin mold kit, but this is a whole other level.

Tip of the hat on this one......

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sun Nov 20, 2016 12:58 am

Stalker6 wrote:Impressive display of the molding process. I thought I was doing good recreating some of the AAM bunkers with a resin mold kit, but this is a whole other level.

Tip of the hat on this one......
thanks for the kind words. I do need to work with resin still. perhaps you can post some how-to's and tips about that. I need to find a very reasonable priced resin mix to use. The hydrostone is cheap for me to use, and the molds will last longer from the info I've gathered.

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by pfclt » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:17 am

dano903 wrote:
Stalker6 wrote:Impressive display of the molding process. I thought I was doing good recreating some of the AAM bunkers with a resin mold kit, but this is a whole other level.

Tip of the hat on this one......
thanks for the kind words. I do need to work with resin still. perhaps you can post some how-to's and tips about that. I need to find a very reasonable priced resin mix to use. The hydrostone is cheap for me to use, and the molds will last longer from the info I've gathered.
These look really nice dano.

Don’t know if I’ll ever use the process but in case………… some questions.
1.) what do you make the master out of?
2.) How do you get the master out of the mold? And or….
3.) The castings look irregular - i.e. pieces that could hang up – so how do they come out of the mold?
4.) What kind of release agent do you use if any?
5.) The finished piece is Hydrostone but -- What do you use to make the molds.
6.) Are there different kinds of hydrostone, if so which do you use, and do you use any special process – like thinning the mixture or making it thicker than the directions?
7.) Would this process work on small pieces or does the casting have air bubbles?
8.) Whats the advantage of resin over hydrostone - if any?

I’m sure there are more that should be asked but for now……… THANKS!

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sun Nov 20, 2016 4:24 am

1.) what do you make the master out of? the master is a floor tile base, wood sticks, and a ready mix cement compound. Once I glue the walls on, I'll add the ready mix cement compound. Before that dries...I'll add the trench steps(flat tooth pixs), and texture the ready mix.

2.) How do you get the master out of the mold? And or…. Once the A/B mixture dries...it takes about 8 hours for it to cure before I remove it from the cylinder. Pretty much I rip it from the floor tile, and slowly peal away the mold compound from the master.
3.) The castings look irregular - i.e. pieces that could hang up – so how do they come out of the mold? It will catch a little bit, but I try to make the master with this in mind...the walls should slope outward, and very few locations where there's an overhang for the A/B mixture to catch on the mold.
4.) What kind of release agent do you use if any? Highly recommended is a "mold release". I use Rocket mold release. There are some better products out there.
5.) The finished piece is Hydrostone but -- What do you use to make the molds. scratch built as described.
6.) Are there different kinds of hydrostone, if so which do you use, and do you use any special process – like thinning the mixture or making it thicker than the directions? I'm not sure if there are different types of Hydrostone, but there are different kinds of "plasters". Plaster of Paris being very weak, then a dental or hydrostone, and then a Merlins Magic which should be the strongest until you start reaching resin. You can eye ball the mixture to thin it out a bit, or use a thicker mixture. depending on the weather...the thicker one will dry faster imho
7.) Would this process work on small pieces or does the casting have air bubbles? No air bubbles on these molds. We use a "bombs away" method of pouring the A/B mixture in the cylinder. When you pour the mixture into the cylinder from 12-18" above the cylinder...the mixture "thins out", and eliminates most/all of the posiible airbubbles. You can design your master clear of voids to prevent airbubbles as well.
8.) Whats the advantage of resin over hydrostone - if any? Resin is defiantly stronger, but a little more expensive. hydrostone is strong, and cheaper than resin. for what I do...hydrostone works well.

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sun Nov 20, 2016 10:59 am

A rubble building representation...

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by pfclt » Sun Nov 20, 2016 1:44 pm

Thanks for the answers ---- Dano ------And ------ I think people are really going to like these ------ very nice additionally theses can be used on more than the Great War game!!!!

couple of more questions.........

1.) The "A/B mixture" ---- is that a particular brand or what is it?
2.) Where do you get your A/B mixture and the hydrostone?
dano903 wrote: 7.) You can design your master clear of voids to prevent airbubbles as well.
3.) "Clear of voids" do you mean sharp corners or just small indentations?
4.) The details in your pictures look good -- do small details like indentations come out OK? Something like a wheel side wall indentations/ rim details.

THANKS!!

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Re: The Great War board game- in 3D- WiP!

Unread post by dano903 » Sun Nov 20, 2016 6:18 pm

1.) The "A/B mixture" ---- is that a particular brand or what is it? A/B mixture refers to the picture below. Normally there's an "A side" and a "B side" to mix at equal parts to make the "C" which is the mold liquid. pix is below.... available from Tap Plastics and several other places.
2.) Where do you get your A/B mixture and the hydrostone? The Hydrostone is available on Ebay in a 40lb. box. there are different strengths, but you'll want to stay with Rock Hard, Dental, or hydrostone. Being 40 lbs., your postman will hate you after the second order. You can research "clay" supplies as well. I buy my material at 63 cents a pound, and Ebay is about a buck. It will depend on how much you will use too.

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